Northey Street City Farm

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Bamboo Cultivation

By Ko Oishi, NSCF Farm Co-ordinator.

One of my favourite annual activities is to harvest and process bamboo as it brings people together, and it is such a great skill sharing session.  It’s a lot of work but it pays off as bamboo yields so many different products.  It’s a relatively untapped resource; too often we see running bamboo spreading to native bushland, on side of the road, in council parks completely unharvested.  Bamboo stakes and poles are often being sold at large hardware stores, imported from south-east Asia, when they are actually growing rampantly on our own roadsides of Brisbane.

It’s important to note that in its natural habitat, and in a balanced ecosystem, most plant species are controlled by herbivores (insects, mammals), disease, competition, etc.  In societies where bamboo has been grown for a long time, the resource is better integrated into day to day living and people know how to utilise it, whether it be for construction or culinary.

At Northey Street, bamboo is generally harvested during the dry season (anytime between May-Sep) and it’s important to choose ones that are at least a few years old because the new growth (1st year growth) is prone to splitting and won’t keep well for construction.  The new growth is indicated by leaf sheaths on the lower nodes, and often have white powdery substance so they’re easily identifiable.   Make sure you use gloves and long sleeves as the hair on the bamboo can irritate your skin, and the bamboo fibre is extremely sharp!

For those that are interested, I encourage you to do your own research on the harvesting season and its reason, most appropriate treatment method, maintenance, etc.

Bamboo is often planted by those that have no intention of harvesting it but planted due to its fast-growing nature (i.e. screening undesirable views, pollution, and noise barrier) and for their aesthetics.  For its various by-products, it’s also often favoured by permaculture practitioners and the like.

It’s important to think of ongoing management if you want to plant bamboo.  When bamboo isn’t harvested annually, it gets harder for ongoing maintenance as the new growth will impede access to the mature ones.  Generally, for clumping bamboo, new growth emerges outwards in a concentric pattern, which means the new growth will often grow on the outside of the perimeter, so without regular pruning and harvesting it can quickly get out of hand.

Once a year, I walk around the farm and spray paint the ones that need to be removed.  The reasons could include for general maintenance, to give more space to new growth, and to use it around the farm for various activities (i.e. Winter Solstice!).

As you can see from the photos, bamboo for construction should be cut as close as possible to the bottom, and flush with the node to prevent water pooling between the nodes.  Harvested bamboo poles are processed by removing lateral branches (for making stakes), and sometimes the internal nodes knocked off using a steel rebar.

In an ideal situation, you’d dry the bamboo poles in a semi-shaded area (never direct sun as it can cause cracking) for a few weeks.

Sometimes these poles are treated using heat (fire in our case) carbohydrate is “cooked” (or crystalise) to make it less palatable to the borers. We’ve also used bees wax mixed with gum turpentine to treat bamboo at the farm after cooking the sugars.

There is also the ‘water leaching’ method where we wash out or ferment the sugars that would otherwise attract the borers.  We haven’t done this method yet but something I’d like to try this year in Breakfast Creek!

We’ve also tried using boric acid and borax to treat the poles, but we have moved away from this method of treatment as we wanted to explore more sustainable products. Strips of bamboo are made using a bamboo splitter.  The splitters can probably be welded together using old steel, but I got mine from Japan.

Whilst there is a bit of maintenance, bamboo offers such an amazing array of products.  It offers beautiful screening, noise, and a pollution barrier.  One study by Leeuwen  (2016) showed that a bamboo barrier of 5 metres in height and a width of 6 metres offers a similar noise-reducing effect of a 3-metre-high solid wall), construction materials, musical instruments, art and craft supplies, food, and so much more!

So, if you’re ever thinking about volunteering at Northey Street,  there’s always a lot to do during this time of the year, including harvesting and processing bamboo!  So come and say g’day.

Check out our current volunteering opportunities here.

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Edible Flowers

By Ronni Martin. NSCF Education & Support Team Manager

Bring colour and interest to your garden and plate by growing edible flowers. Edible flowers can create a colourful show in your front garden. Or they can be distributed through your vegetable beds or around fruit trees where their other uses in attracting beneficial insects and pollinators will be appreciated.  You can even grow some edible flowers in containers on your deck or balcony where they are close to the kitchen.

Edible flowers can be used to garnish sweet or savoury dishes, as well as in flower butters, oils or liqueurs. They make great decorations on cakes or desserts, either fresh or candied. Zucchini and daylily flowers can be stuffed with tasty fillings and steamed or baked. However, most flowers are served fresh, not cooked, so that they keep their colour and texture.

You are already eating some edible flowers as the common ‘vegetables’ broccoli, cauliflower, and artichokes are all flowers. The spice saffron is the stamen from the crocus flower, while cloves are flower buds. Capers are the unopened flower buds of a bush native in the Mediterranean.

Flowers are part of the traditional cuisine around the world. In the Middle East, Eastern Europe and India, floral waters such as rosewater and orange flower water are used to flavour sweets, meats and beverages. The French mixture known as “Herbes de Provence” has dried lavender flowers in it, while the liqueur Chartreuse contains carnation flowers.

Stuffed nasturtium
Artichoke
Nasturtium, pineapple sage and feijoa salad

Choosing edible flowers

Some flowers are poisonous so always identify flowers accurately before eating them.  And use flowers as a garnish, so you eat them in moderation.

Some common garden flowers to be avoided (but not a complete list) are: arum, azalea, crocus, daffodil, foxglove, hydrangea, iris, oleander, lilies, lily of the valley, lobelia, and wisteria.

Only the petals of composite flowers (daisy-like flowers) are edible. The pollen of composite flowers is allergenic and may cause reactions in sensitive people. Sufferers of asthma and hay-fever should not consume composite flowers, and may have extreme allergies to ingesting any flowers at all. If you have any allergies, consult your doctor before consuming edible flowers.

There are a few cautions to remember before harvesting any flowers:

  • Don’t harvest any flowers that could have been exposed to animal excrement.
  • Don’t harvest any flowers that have had insecticides sprayed on them.
  • Don’t harvest any flowers from the side of roads where they have been exposed to carbon monoxide or other pollutants.
  • Don’t eat any flowers from florists as they may have been sprayed with pesticides.
  • Don’t pick any flowers that show signs of disease or have been eaten by insects.

Common edible flowers for the subtropics

*= Composite flowers.  Only the petals of composite flowers (daisy-like flowers) are edible.

Alyssum

Angelica

Anise Hyssop

Apple Blossom

Artichoke

Banana

Basils

Bergamot

Borage

Burnet

*Calendula

Caper

Carnation

* Chamomile

*Chicory

Chives (garden & garlic)

Cilantro / Coriander

Citrus

Clover

*Cornflower

*Cosmos

*Dandelion

Dahlia

Daylily

Dianthus

Dill

Elderberry

*English Daisy

Fennel

Freesia

Fuchsia

Gardenia

Garlic

Geraniums

Gladiolus

Hibiscus

Honeysuckle

Hollyhock

Hyssop

Iceland Poppy

Impatiens / Busy lizzie

Jasmine (Arabian)

Johnny Jump Up (Heartsease)

Lavender

Lemon Verbena

Lilac

Mallow

Marjoram

Mints

Mustard

Nasturtium

Oregano

Okra

Onion

Pansy

Passionflower

Pea

Peony

Pineapple guava / Feijoa

Pineapple Sage

Primrose

Radish

Red Clover

Rocket

Rose

Rosemary

Rose of Sharon

Runner Bean

Sage

Scented Geranium

Snapdragon

Society Garlic

Squash Blossom

Summer Savory

*Sunflower

Sweet William

Thyme

Viola

Violet

Winter Savory

Zucchini

Pumpkin
Scented Geranium
Hibiscus

 

Using edible flowers

Pick your flowers in the morning when their water content is at its highest. Then wash the flowers gently in salt-water and immediately drop them in cold water for 1 minute. Dry on a tea towel. Then separate the petals, remove the stamens and stems as they are often woody or bitter. Use your flower petals immediately, or store the whole flower in a glass of water in the refrigerator overnight.

 Growing Edible Flowers

The first task when planning to grow flowers is to find out the growing conditions the different types need. Seed packets or plant labels will tell you their soil, light and temperature requirements.

Most flowers thrive in well-drained, fertile soil enriched with compost. However, go easy on high-Nitrogen soil amendments as they will increase leaf growth at the expense of flowering. A layer of mulch around the plants will help to keep the soil cool in summer, retain moisture, and feed soil micro-organisms.

Grow plants with similar light and water requirements together to make it easier to give them the conditions they need. Most plants will flower better in full sun, but in the subtropics they will do just as well in part-shade, especially shade from the summer afternoon sun.

Give plants at least one good watering a week but more often in hot summers. Container grown flowers may need daily watering.

To ensure the edible flowers look their best, give them some shelter from strong winds. Even a few taller plants in the main wind direction will help to shelter smaller plants behind them.

‘Deadheading’, removing flowers once they drop their petals, extends the flowering time by encouraging the plant to create more flowers. However, you can collect your own seed if you leave some flowers on selected plants to set seed.

My ‘Top 10’ edible flowers for the subtropics, in alphabetical order, are:

Borage (Borago officinalis)

Sow seed spring to summer. Sun to part shade.  Grows to 90cm. Bee attracting blue flowers, edible leaves.

Calendula (Calendula officinalis)

Sow seed autumn to spring. Sunny position. Fertile soil. Collect seed and deadhead regularly. Orange to yellow flowers.

Cornflower (Centaurea cyanea)

Sow seed autumn to winter. Sun to part shade. Fertile soil. Grows to 60cm. Blue (pink to mauve) flowers.

Cosmos (Cosmos bipinnatus, C.sulphureus)

Sow seed in late winter to spring. Sun to part shade. Drought tolerant.

C. bipinnatus: pink to red flowers, up to 1.5m tall.

C. sulphurea: orange to yellow flowers, 45 – 50cm tall

Daylily (Hemerocallis fulva and cultivars)

Propagate by division. Full sun. drought tolerant. Strappy leaves form a clump to 50cm. Botanically it is not a Lily, so the flowers are edible. Numerous colours and cultivars.

 

Dianthus (Dianthus spp)

Propagate from cuttings. Biennial. Full sun. Drought tolerant, needs good drainage. In acid soils, add lime. Deadhead regularly. Pinks to reds. 10 to 50cm. Pinks, Carnations and Sweet Williams are all species of Dianthus.

Hibiscus (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, H. acetosella, H.sabdariffa, H. tiliaceus)

Propagate from cuttings or seed. Full sun. There are many species of hibiscus, all with edible flowers.

H. rosa-sinensis – ‘hawaiian hibiscus’ – small trees or shrubs. Many cultivars with flowers from pink to yellow, red and white.

H. acetosella – cranberry hibiscus. –small shrub to 2m. Deep pink flowers and red leaves are edible.

H. sabdariffa – roselle. Swollen calyxes are used to make jam or drinks.

H. tiliaceus -native hibiscus. This tree is too big for most backyards, but the flower is edible if you spot a tree in flower somewhere.

Nasturtium (Tropaeolum majus)

Sow seed direct, in spring to autumn. Sun to part shade Poor soil increases flower production. Drought tolerant. Orange to yellow flowers, edible leaves. Groundcover.

Pineapple Sage (Salvia elegans)

Propagate by cuttings. Sun to part shade.. Red flowers and pineapple-scented leaves are edible. Small shrub to 1.5m.

Viola (Viola spp)

Sow seed summer to winter. Fertile soil, mulch to protect surface roots. Keep moist. Deadhead regularly. Purples, yellows, whites. Viola, pansy, heartsease, and Johnny Jump Up are all species of Viola.

 

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Growing microgreens at home

By Jody Wall, NSCF Site Co-ordinator.

In recent years microgreens have moved from the fancy plates of high-end restaurants to the garages and greenhouses of gardeners around the world. These little greens have made their way into the hearts, and into the regular diets, of millions of people. They are versatile and relatively easy to grow. With a quick turnaround time and small space requirement, they have become a go to crop for small market growers everywhere. I started growing microgreens to supplement my market garden income. It proved such a great business I made the business decision to cease the market garden and concentrate on just microgreens. Such is their economic potential. However, most people should be able to grow microgreens at home with few problems. With a small amount of practice and patience, the correct seed choice and irrigation techniques,  you will be on your way to enjoying fresh home grown greens.

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Setting up for growing microgreens

To start with, you need space, somewhere protected from swings in temperature, especially to the hot side. Also, it should be somewhere that you will visit every day. In Permaculture terms, microgreens are a zone 1 type crop. Many people use a garage, or if you have a large enough laundry you can use it. I use my existing Titan Shed. It is uninsulated, and I live in Queensland, so temperature control is a real issue. Gumtree is a great place to find cheap, second-hand, metal shelving to hold the seed trays.

You will need space for twice your estimated the weekly consumption. One area for this week’s crop, one area for those you are growing for next week. Most microgreens will give you a second shoot if you leave them in the soil. This also works to keep them fresher longer. With practise you will learn which varieties grow too much during the second week, and need to be cut at the right time. Leaving some varieties lets them get lanky, and stringy. My lovely partner’s favourite are snow pea shoots. These are a hardy, quick growing type. They come in a few varieties, but all tasted pretty similar to me.

As part of your setup, especially consider ventilation in the space. If it has anything less than a reasonably constant airflow, I would strongly recommend installing pedestal fans to push air across your sprouted microgreens. The density of growth makes microgreens particularly susceptible to stem rot, an evil fungus that will destroy trays of microgreens in a few hours. Maintaining airflow is an almost foolproof method of avoiding this issue. Pedestal fans are cheap and use minimal electricity. So they are a very efficient method of ventilating your growing area. Of course, there is the option of an insulated and climate-controlled room, but that is more in the advanced microgreens production field.

After you have set up the growing space you will need trays. I have found the standard nursery seedling trays work best. Around 200mm x 300mm is best as any larger and the tray becomes too large to handle, and the microgreens too difficult to cut. I would start with four trays: two for this week and two for next week. Wash the trays the same as you would for new seedlings.

Most green vegetable seed can be used to produce microgreens. Also popular are alfalfa, amaranth, beetroot, chinese cabbage,cress, dill, barleygass and oatgrass, peas, radish and sunflower.

 

Growing instructions

This is the the fun part. It is a fairly simple process and will be familiar to those that have grown seedlings before.

  1. Fill the trays using a seed raising mix, or a finely sieved potting mix. Some of the trays have a mesh patterned bottom to allow water drainage. I lay down a sheet of chux to keep the potting mix from falling through. You can also buy riggy didge microgreen trays. In my experience, they are expensive, and unnecessary. I use solid floor trays as well, just remember to drill holes in their bases to allow water to drain.
  2. Many microgreens seeds are pinhead size. Using too coarse a potting mix causes the seed to fall into areas of the mix that do not allow them to grow. This is a waste of seed, and of the area in your tray. I use a combination of worm farm tailings and a cheap seedling mix. The important thing to remember is that the seeds will not be drawing on any nutrients in the soil. They will only live long enough to use the nutrient that comes packaged in the seed itself. I use worm tailings because my next use of the growing medium is to fertilise my second-year trees that I transplanted. This is an important consideration. You do not really get to reuse the growing medium, the soil. It will be matted with root structure from cut microgreens. It is far too time consuming to remove all the roots in it. Either compost the soil or reuse it on a larger plant that will not be bothered by the decomposing roots.
  3. Scrape any excess soil off, then tamp down the soil in the trays until it is firm but not compacted.
  4. Pre-water the soil before placing seeds in the trays. I sit my trays in water for 5 mins before seeding. If the trays have good drainage, this will help to ensure an even watering across the tray. As I will discuss later, this is also the method I use to water my microgreens with daily.
  5. Sprinkle seeds liberally over the surface of the seedling mix. Remember the point is to have dense, compact growth. This goes against the instincts of a seedling grower, but it produces the results you want. I use a tablespoon. I have found my hands just do not do the same job. Just imagine you are sprinkling sugar on your breakfast cereal. The seed should be a single layer thick, with seeds almost touching.
  6. Softly moisten the seeds. I use a new pump poison sprayer, or a small spray bottle also works. Obviously new or very, very clean.
  7. Cover the seeds with a light sprinkle of soil. Or for many of the bigger seeds, I use boards cut to the size of the tray. These have the advantage of ensuring darkness, keeping vermin off, and trapping a small amount of moisture.
  8. Important. I know it’s difficult. It’s new life. It’s a new project. You will do this every week. So, enjoy the anticipation.
  9. After a couple of days, literally, the boards will start to rise up as the mass of seedlings pushes against them. Now is the time to uncover the trays.
  10. Mist water the seedlings, or use an ebb and flow irrigation technique. The real danger for microgreens is root stem fungus infection. They can be perfect one day but dead the next morning. To combat this, you will need constant airflow . Easy to do with a pedestal fan rotating over the trays, and irrigating from the soil up, rather than constantly wetting the leaves and stems with overhead watering.
  11. To harvest your microgreens, trim off desired quantity using a very sharp long blade. Grasp the microgreens firmly around the stems and cut as close to the soil as possible. Try to avoid scissors, as the crossing of the blades bruises the stems, and starts the plant rotting immediately. I keep them in the fridge. I’ve found they stay fresh for up to a week.

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Seed Saving

By Krystelle Ellaby

I always start my seed saving class outlining the many great reasons to seed save. I tell participants:

  • Seed saving is fun.
  • It’s a radical political act.
  • It saves you money.
  • You’ll have loads to sow, with plenty left over to share.
  • Seed saving preserves genetic variety and species diversity.
  • Over time, your plants will become adapted to your microclimate.

All of these are true. I have never once said to my class, “We need to save our seeds because one day, there will be no seeds on the shelf to buy.” It never occurred to me it would ever be true in my lifetime.

Today, (March 26, 2020,) the big green box is sold out of herb and vegetable seeds. My favourite online seed store has closed temporarily.

Seed saving has never been so imperative or been such a moral obligation.

Now that I’ve laid the heavy on you, let’s get down to the fun stuff.

The basic steps of seed saving are Select ~ Collect ~ Process (wet or dry method) ~ Store.

Select:

The best types of plants to start seed saving from are tomatoes, capsicums, chillis, beans, and peas. These plants are unlikely to cross-pollinate with other varieties. You will get seeds that produce plants very similar to the parent plant.

To save seeds from other plants, you will need to prevent cross-pollination. To avoid crossing, you need to seperate plants with distance, time, or physical barriers. Distance is a little tricky for backyard gardeners, as pollinators such as bees can travel 5 km. A combination of time and physical barriers works best.

Choose the variety you want to seed save from and only plant one variety from that family at a time. Use a fruit fly net, or bag, to reduce pollinator’s access to flowers. Excluding pollinators means you will need to hand pollinate the flowers. Don’t worry too much about it, use a soft paintbrush or a feather, and brush the insides of each flower, daily. Wrap the brush in a paper bag, keeping the pollen on it and use it again the next day. This way, you’ll be covered if male and female flowers are open on different days.

Only save seeds from open-pollinated, heirloom plants. Heirlooms will produce plants that are very similar to the parent plant. Hybrids, or F1 varieties, may produce seeds, but they may be sterile, the resulting plant may be different from what you expected, or the plant may be less healthy and less productive.

“Save the best, Eat the rest” Always pick the healthiest plant, with the best fruit.

Choose the plant that gives you the traits you need. For example, do you want fruit that ripens earlier, or later? It’s also an excellent idea to select individual fruit that stored well. Storage is a great trait to look for in pumpkins and onions, for example.

Collect:

With fruits and vegetables like tomatoes and capsicums, let the fruit ripen on the plant. You want it past table ready, a little wrinkly, a little bit squishy. Leave flowers, grains, or pods on the plant until they are very dry. Leave beans and pea pods on the vines or bush until they are dry and rattle when you shake them. Only collect seeds on a dry, sunny day, after the dew has dried.

Be sure of the identity of the plant before collecting the seed. I’ve had “basil” seeds given to me that were weeds, and “parsley” that was Queen Anne’s lace.

Process:

Wet method:

This method is for fleshy or watery fruits and vegetables. Pick the fruit and remove the seeds. The flesh of fruit that has a coating on the seeds, like tomatoes, passion fruit, and cucumbers, can be left in a jar of water for a couple of days to ferment. Pop the jar on top of the fridge. Warn your housemates/partner not to touch your gross science experiment. This fermentation step is optional, but it is said to help remove fungus and bacteria from the seeds. It helps break down that slimy coating.

Rinse the gross slop from the seeds using a sieve under running water. Push the seeds around with your hands to remove the goop.

Once you have removed the flesh, spread the damp seeds onto newspaper or paper towels to dry out. Keep the drying seeds somewhere safe, like the top of the fridge. Label the paper so people know not to throw it out on you. Draw a skull and crossbones to drive the message home.

Dry method:

Use this method for flowering plants, grains/grasses, and legumes.

  • Thresh: Take the flower heads, or bean pods and give them a bit of a bash. Use a rolled-up newspaper for hard seeds. Gently rub softer flowers between your fingers.
  • Winnow: Put the bashed up pods, or flower-heads, into a shallow dish, or an old casserole tray, something with a lip. Go outside. Stand in a cross breeze, or in front of a fan on low speed. Face away from the source of the breeze. Gently toss the seeds into the air and allow the little petals and bits of leaves to blow away. The heavier seeds will sink to the bottom. You are now separating the seeds from the chaff, very biblical of you. It’s essential to do this because the chaff may be harbouring bug eggs, or mould spores.

 Store:

Once the seeds are completely dry, store them in an airtight container. You can pop in a silica sachet, to ensure it stays safe from humidity. Bay leaves and DE, or diatomaceous earth, may help protect the seed from bugs.

LABEL the container with the date, and the seed variety. And I mean it, label it! Do not be like me and have to guess what that grungy old baggy is holding.

Store the container in a dry place with a stable temperature. It’s often recommended to store seeds in the fridge. I don’t tend to do this as I know my fridge gets quite humid. A cupboard in a room that stays cool and dry is perfect. Avoid large daily temperature swings, and keep the temp above freezing and below 25C.

Assume that the seeds have a shelf life of 1 year. Most seeds have a shelf life of 2 to 5 years if stored correctly. Legumes and grains store for much longer. If you have out of date seed, it is still worth sowing, however, sow extra to compensate for the lower germination rate.

Notes on seed saving tropical fruits:

Some tropical fruits, for example, avocados, or mangoes, have seeds that don’t store very well. Plant these seeds straight away. Eat the fruit, remove the seed, and pop it straight into some good quality seed raising mix. Keep the pot in a warm shady spot and water it every day.

Resources:

The Seed Saver’s Handbook, Michel and Jude Fanton, ISBN 0 646 10226 5. Available soon at City Farm Nursery.

Seed collecting guide, Stefan Mager, Aracaria Guides

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Forest Gardens

The Tree Care Group of volunteers have been renewing the plantings in the various orchards and forest gardens around our site over the last couple of years.  These gardens are along the Northey Street boundary and to the west of the allotment garden area.

So, what is a forest garden and how does it work?

 An interconnected system

A forest garden is a polyculture or mix of different perennial plants that aims to produce food without needing a lot of added fertiliser or water, by mimicking the processes of a natural ecosystem. Mutually beneficial plants are grouped together to form an interactive community called a guild. The plants are all chosen to do well in our subtropical climate.

Layers

In a forest garden, there are groundcovers, herbs, shrubs, vines, small trees and larger trees, all arranged to capture the sun’s energy while also providing shade for those plants that need it.

Interplanted

Between the larger fruit and nut trees are smaller plants that support their growth and productivity:

  • Legumes ‘fix’ nitrogen from the air into the soil, from where it is taken up by the roots of the fruit trees. Legumes include ice cream bean, pigeon pea, crotalaria, and pinto peanut.

 

  • Nutrient accumulators’ deep roots bring up important plant nutrients such as calcium from the deeper soil into the topsoil. Nutrient accumulators include comfrey and yarrow.

 

  • Host plants for butterflies and moths provide food for caterpillars, which recycle leaves into soil, attract birds and develop into butterfly and moth pollinators. Host plants include native mulberry, acacias, native grasses, sennas and saltbush.
  • Insectary plants provide pollen and nectar for insects that pollinate food plants and for insects that feed on and help control ‘pest’ insects that eat food plants. Insectary plants include rosemary, sages, native grasses, and nasturtium.

 

  • Ground cover plants protect and enrich the soil and stop weedy ground covers from taking over. Ground covers include pinto peanut, Brazilian spinach, sweet potato, mother of all herb, dianella, warrigal greens, myoporum, comfrey, yarrow and pepper leaf.

 

  • Mulch plants are regularly ‘chopped and dropped’ to smother weeds and protect and enrich the soil. Mulch plants include vetiver grass, Qld arrowroot, pigeon pea and lemongrass.

 

Productive and resilient

Many of these support plants also produce food while other smaller perennial food plants add to the food yield as well.

A number of the support plants are local native plants that support a greater number and diversity of insects, lizards and birds than exotic plants. They help control any population explosions of ‘pest’ insects that could threaten the food plants.

Always changing

The forest garden changes over time, as faster growing fruit trees such as bananas and pawpaws mature and produce food and then die back to let the slower growing trees, like citrus and avocado, emerge.

How does it work?

A forest garden achieves its aims by:

  • placing plants carefully in relation to each other to facilitate interconnection and support
  • recycling plant nutrients through the soil to the root zone to feed the food plants
  • building a rich, spongy soil that holds water
  • supporting abundant microbial and insect life in the soil and on the plants.

 

 

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Bushfoods for permaculture gardens and farms in the sub-tropics

Adding local bush foods to your garden can add new flavours to your diet while sustaining wildlife as well. There is a native plant to fill almost every purpose from food to fiber to timber, and they come in all growth forms from vines to giant trees. The lists below will help you to find a useful local plant suited to our climate and landscape.

There are many reasons to include bush foods in your garden design. Local native plants are easier to look after than exotic plants as they are well adapted to local conditions of climate and soil.  They’re also less susceptible to pests and diseases and can assist with pest control as they provide habitat for native insects and birds that feed on pests. Growing native plants attracts wildlife to your garden which gives you an added connection with your natural environment and helps to increase biodiversity. Bush foods can also be included in bush regeneration plantings to increase the productivity of native plantings on site.

Many local native plants have the bonus that they add different, interesting foods to your diet. Bush foods include spices like native pepper, vegetables like warrigal greens, fruit like native raspberry and nuts like macadamia. Learning about local bush foods acknowledges the way indigenous people lived in the environment, and this understanding promotes respect for the land.

On larger Permaculture properties bush foods have potential for being grown commercially. There is increasing demand for bush foods, with industry associations that are working to build markets for their products. Lemon myrtle, Davidson’s plum, macadamia nuts, and native limes are all grown in commercial quantities. Rosella and other bush food jams are often available at Farmers Markets.

Growing Requirements

Most of the plants listed below are rainforest species. They require well drained soil, with high levels of organic matter and will not tolerate long periods without moisture. Most will tolerate shade, but require sun for the best fruit or seed production.

 

 
Zone 1:            Home garden
Common Name Botanical Name Growth Form Uses
Flax lily Dianella caerula Hardy plant with strappy leaves, attractive flowers and fruits Edible blue fruits
Native raspberry* Rubus rosifolius var rosifolius Prickly canes, suckers readily, full sun fruit eaten fresh or in jam
Native Turmeric (Cape York Lily) Curcuma australasica Ginger-like plant, large leaves, attractive flowers Rhizomes used like turmeric
Native violet Viola hederacea Low groundcover Flowers and leaves edible
Nyullee (pigface) Carpobrotus glaucesens Succulent groundcover, full sun ‘Salty strawberry’ fruit
Rosella Hibiscus sabdariffa Annual shrub Red calyx used in jams, teas, chutney
Scrambling lily Geitonoplesium cymosum Small vine, likes shade Shoot eaten raw
Scurvy Weed Commelina cyanea Perennial prostrate herb with blue flowers Leaves eaten raw or cooked
Spike rush (water chestnut) Eleocharis dulcis water rush that grows in water or boggy ground Edible corms
Warrigal greens* Tetragonia tetragonioides annual groundcover, salt tolerant, sun or partial shade Edible leaf (must be boiled first), used as a spinach

 

 

Zone 2:            Home orchard
Aniseed myrtle* Backhousia anisata small to medium tree aromatic leaves with aniseed flavour, used in teas
Bolwarra Eupomatia laurina Shrub Edible fruit
Blue tongue Melastoma affine Shrub with mauve flowers Grainy purple fruit
Burdekin plum* Pleiogynum timorense medium tree Purple fruit in winter, eaten fresh or used in jams
Cedar Bay cherry* Eugenia reinwardtiana shrub, full sun sweet, pink-red fruit eaten raw
Cinnamon myrtle* Backhousia  myrtifolia shrub with white flowers aromatic leaves for tea, spice
Davidson’s plum* Davidsonia pruriens small tree Sour fruit used in jams, wine
Finger lime* Citrus australasica small tree, best in partial shade small fruit (red, purple or green) used in drinks, marmalades,
Lemon aspen, common aspen* Achronychia acidula medium trees

 

 lemon flavoured fruit, use in sauces, drinks
Lemon myrtle* Backhousia citriodora medium tree, hardy aromatic leaves contain ‘citral’, used in teas, sauces, cosmetics
Lilli pillies Syzygium spp. small – medium trees fruit used in jams, drinks, sauces
Lime berry Glycosmis trifoliata Shrub small juicy pink fruits eaten fresh
Macadamia* Macadamia integrifolia Medium/large tree edible nuts with high oil content
Midyim berry Austromyrtis dulcis low shrub, ground cover small, speckled edible fruit
Millaa millaa vine Eleagnus triflora clumping vine Small, tasty fruit, high in lycopene
Native ginger Alpinia caerulea attractive understorey shrub spicy seeds, shoots edible, leaves used to wrap fish in coals
Native pepper* Tasmannia lanceolata shrub for cool, moist areas, with purple or white berries dried leaves and seeds used as pepper
Native tamarind* Diploglottis australis Tall slender tree Sour yellow fruit used for jams, drinks
Peanut tree Sterculia quadrifida small-medium tree, deciduous Edible black seed in a decorative red pod
Riberry* Syzygium luehmannii small – medium tree, pink new foliage, white flowers, red fruit fruit used in jams, drinks, sauces
Round lime* Citrus australis small to medium tree round green fruit used in jams, drinks
Sandpaper fig Ficus coronata small trees fleshy purple fruit, edible raw or in jams
Small leaved tamarind* Diploglottis campbellii medium tree, hardy,

glossy green foliage

 fruit with red, edible aril, used in jams, drinks
Walking stick palm Linospadix monostachya attractive understorey shrub refreshing small red fruit
Zig zag vine Melodorum leichhardtii vine Tangy ‘orange sherbet’ fruit

 

 

Zone 3:            Commercial orchard

*Species marked with an asterisk in the lists above and below have commercial potential.

Zone 4:            Windbreaks, Erosion control, Stock shelter belts

All the species listed above can be used, plus those in the table below.

Zone 5:            Bush Regeneration areas

All the species listed above plus those in the table below.

Acacias (wattles)* Acacia spp fast-growing pioneers, small to large trees, add nitrogen to the soil many have seed that is edible after roasting and grinding, used for coffee substitute, and in desserts
Black apple Planchonella australis large tree edible fruit
Blue quandong Elaeocarpus grandis large tree fruit used for drinks
Brown pine plum* Podocarpus elatus large tree fruit used for jams, sauces
Bunya pine* Araucaria bidwilli large tree edible nuts, boiled, roasted, dried, ground for flour
Cockspur vine Maclura cochinchinensis clumping, thorny vine edible yellow or orange fruit
Kangaroo apple Solanum aviculare pioneer shrub fruits edible in small amounts when completely ripe
Native grapes Cissus antartica vines some have edible fruit
Native hibiscus Hibiscus tiliaceus pioneer, small flowering tree flowers edible in salads or jam, leaves edible when boiled
Native mulberry Pipturis argenteus pioneer small tree fruits edible
Native tamarind* Diploglottis australis medium-large tree fruit with yellow aril used for jams, drinks

 

 

Further Reading

Tim Low (1988) Wild Food Plants of Australia, Angus and Robertson, Sydney

Cribb, AB & JW. (1974) Wild Food in Australia, Fontana Collins, Sydney

Online

Australian Native Foods and Botanicals – www.anfab.org.au

 

 

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Learn How to Compost at Home

Sat 12 May 2018 • 9:00am – 12:00pm at Northey Street City Farm

Free

Celebrate International Compost Awareness Week at this interactive workshop.

This workshop will cover the basics of composting, worm farming and the Bokashi fermentation composting system including; setting up, managing and maintaining different compost systems, how to choose the best system for your home and options for using second hand materials to set up your system.

This event is facilitated by Krystelle Ellaby from Northey Street City Farm.

To book CLICK HERE

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Veganic Farmers at NSCF markets

 

An interview with Kim Accardi, Northey Street stall holder and vegan farmer.

Check out Kim Accardi and Chris Spencer’s sensational preserves and seasonal produce at the Northey Street City Farm Markets every Sunday from 6.30 to 11 am.

How did your love of Organics start?
My love for animals and nature was where it all began. The more I learnt about conservation, horticulture and cruelty free living, the more interested I became in organics. I began researching the effects of pesticides and herbicides not long after I became interested in gardening. Herbicides such as glyphosate and the effects they have, not only on the environment but also potentially to our own health and the health of our families and furry friends. I had always made sure my own garden and home grown veggies were pesticide free so I believe it was a natural transition into organics. Permaculture was what really sucked me in. I loved the concept of strategic planting to supply nutrients and to control pests.

Tell us more about your veganic farming methods, and are there any other Vegan Farms in operation that you know of?
Our objective is to grow produce with the least harm, not only to the environment but to all animals. This means we do not use any animal manure, blood and bone, eggshells, fish emulsion, etc.

Key aspects to successful Veganic farming are: careful planning of annual ‘bed’ rotation, green manures, cover crops, weed tea, bull kelp and lots and lots of compost! We use companion planting and other methods to repel pests rather than killing them. A lot of thought goes into the best way we can handle various pests with the least harm, such as attracting natural predators, creating barriers or planting decoys. Veganic methods are quite common in most vegan backyards, however I don’t believe veganics is seen as ‘cost effective’ on a large scale. It certainly is more time intensive and a lot more hard work and planning, but well worth it.
All of the products we make and sell (Jams, Sauces, Chutney, etc) are all 100% vegan too of course.

What’s a typical week look like for you?
As we have such a wide variety of fruit trees and crops, no week is ever the same. Strawberry and mango seasons are very busy for us as they are our biggest crops, however we put a lot of hard work in all year round, pruning, watering, making compost, feeding the soil, maintaining and expanding our conservation and re-vegetation areas. As they say, a farmer’s work is never done! Then comes cooking all tasty products we take to market, in which hours can fly by with sometimes minimal result. We have 3 beautiful dogs, a cat and loads of wildlife that all enjoy and need our attention too. Before you know it…it’s 3am Sunday and we’re up and packing the vehicles for Market day.

What’s your favourite thing about Northey Street City Farm Markets?

I love how excited our customers get about our produce and other products! It is really great to be able to communicate directly with the customer and answer any questions they may have, whilst also providing us with feedback. I also love the atmosphere and the community feel that Northey Street City Farm has.

If you could get the population of Australia to all do one thing, what would it be? 
That one is a no brainier for both of us. Take the time to meet your meat and get to know them for who they are. Cuddle a lamb, watch a calf prance around like a puppy or get smooched by a piglet. Research the meat and dairy industry and then follow your heart 

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Gardening with guilds

By Lydia Blocksidge, City Farm Nursery Co-ordinator

Have you heard the term garden guild or guilding before? If you have, it’s probably been used in the context of agro-forestry and forest gardening, as this is where the concept is most commonly applied. Guilding is a Permaculture technique that recognizes the relationships in nature, especially in a forest system, and applies it to productive garden and orchard spaces.

When I was living and working at Rancho Mastatal, a Sustainability Education Centre and operating permaculture farm in rural Costa Rica, we established and maintained planting guilds throughout our agro-forestry orchards. But don’t be mistaken, you don’t need acres of land to use guilding, it is an incredibly adaptive and useful tool to use anywhere, in any productive garden setting.

In simple terms, a planting guild or garden guild is a harmonious collection of plants comprising two things, primary crop species and secondary support species. The primary species are commonly the food producing plants and the secondary species have functions to support the healthy growth and abundance of the primary food crops. These functions can include pollinator and good bug attracting species such as marigolds and other flowering plants, nitrogen-fixing species such as pigeon pea and pinto peanut, fungal deterrent species such as turmeric and ginger, pest deterrent species such as citronella, erosion control such as vetiver grass and chop and drop species for mulching such as arrowroot.

Guilds can be established in two main ways, either by guilding each single plant in your garden or by guilding the garden as a whole. If guilding each plant individually the primary crop species is usually in the middle of a guilding circle or half circle, with the support species around it. At Rancho Mastatal this method was used in the orchards around young tropical fruit and nut trees. Many of these trees take 10-15 years to start producing food so a healthy start in life is crucial for them. This was a useful method of planting because not only did the guiding circles help to locate the tree seedlings, it was also easy to manage them, with all the materials for healthy growth in one place.

If the entire garden is established as a whole guild, primary crop species are planted throughout the space and support species are interspersed between them. This is a great way to plan the urban garden. Whichever method you choose, the main thing to remember when establishing a guild in your garden is that all you need to do is define two things, your primary crop species and then decide which secondary species are going to support your primary crop. If you have separate garden beds you could choose to grow different primary species in each and different secondary species to support them.

Below are a few examples of urban garden guilds you could use at home.

Primary crop species: Tomatoes

Support species: Beans, Corn and Nasturtium.

Why it works: Tomatoes are heavy nitrogen feeders and beans fix nitrogen in the soil. Nasturtiums attract bees and other beneficial insects and also add color to the garden, as well as creating a ground cover for the soil. And corn provides a natural, food-producing trellis system for the tomatoes and beans, as well as mulch from the husks.

 

 

Primary crop species: Leafy greens

Support species: Oregano, Marigolds, and Carrots

Why it works: Oregano has a strong scent that helps to deter garden pests. It also forms a thick ground cover for the soil. Marigolds provide color and attract pollinators and beneficial insects. And carrots aerate the soil and provide a root crop, utilizing the space more efficiently.

 

 

 

Primary crop species: Broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower and other brassicas

Support species: Land cress, thyme, and garlic

Why it works: Land cress is extremely attractive to common chewing garden pests but it’s also highly toxic to them. So it does two things, keeps chewing pests off your primary crop and naturally eradicates the pests from your garden. It’s also a delicious peppery addition in salads. Thyme attracts pollinators to your garden with its beautiful flowers and it’s a tasty culinary herb. And garlic produces a supplementary crop that uses minimal space while also helping to keep pests out of your garden with its scent.

Guilding your home garden is an extremely effective method to maximize your yield outputs and minimize your labor inputs. It is important to remember when establishing guilds which plants grow well together in terms of water, soil, sunlight and so on. Companion planting guides are a great place to start. From there, consider what you want your primary crop species to be and then decide what support species are going to benefit the primary species, and you, most efficiently.

I always use the permaculture principle every element has multiple functions to determine my support species. For example, nasturtium in example 1 above, provides ground cover for the soil, it attracts pollinators, it’s beautiful and it can be used in the kitchen. Land cress can be used in the kitchen, it eradicates chewing pests and it can form a ground cover over the soil. If you can come up with at least three uses/reasons why you’ve selected the support plants you have, then you’re on the right track!

So who’s ready to start their urban garden guild? The City Farm Nursery has everything to help get you started!

 

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